“Sometimes fate is like a small sandstorm that keeps changing directions. You change direction but the sandstorm chases you. You turn again, but the storm adjusts. Over and over you play this out, like some ominous dance with death just before dawn. Why? Because this storm isn’t something that blew in from far away, something that has nothing to do with you. This storm is you. Something inside of you. So all you can do is give in to it, step right inside the storm, closing your eyes and plugging up your ears so the sand doesn’t get in, and walk through it, step by step. There’s no sun there, no moon, no direction, no sense of time. Just fine white sand swirling up into the sky like pulverized bones. That’s the kind of sandstorm you need to imagine.
And you really will have to make it through that violent, metaphysical, symbolic storm. No matter how metaphysical or symbolic it might be, make no mistake about it: it will cut through flesh like a thousand razor blades. People will bleed there, and you will bleed too. Hot, red blood. You’ll catch that blood in your hands, your own blood and the blood of others.
And once the storm is over you won’t remember how you made it through, how you managed to survive. You won’t even be sure, in fact, whether the storm is really over. But one thing is certain. When you come out of the storm you won’t be the same person who walked in. That’s what this storm’s all about.”
– Haruki Murakami, Kafka on the Shore
This waffle is modeled after my favorite savory crêpe–buckwheat flour, gruyere, french ham, and a fried egg. I also like ratatouille in a savory crêpe, which I’ve sort of color facsimiled here with hot sauce. The waffle recipe is based on my favorite yeasted waffle, written by Marion Cunningham. (I first read about it in Genius Recipes.) Makes about 12 waffles, although my waffle iron produces thin waffles.
- 1/2 cup (120ml) warm water
- 1 envelope (7 grams) active dry yeast
- 2 cups (475ml) milk, warmed
- 1/2 cup (1 stick/115 grams) unsalted butter, melted
- 1 teaspoon kosher salt
- 1 1/2 cups (188 grams) flour
- 1/2 cup (64 grams) buckwheat flour
- 2 large eggs
- 1/4 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/4 pound jambon de paris, diced
- 1/4 pound swiss or gruyere cheese, diced
- 1/3 cup minced chives
- 5 cracks black pepper
- hot sauce, for topping (optional)
- fried eggs (optional)
- Add the warm water to a large mixing bowl (the batter will almost double while resting); sprinkle the yeast over it. Let stand for 5 minutes. Pour the warm milk, melted butter, salt, and both flours into the bowl; whisk vigorously to incorporate, and to rid the batter of lumps. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap; let rest on the counter overnight. (I’ve also made these waffles 24 or 48 hours ahead; in this case, let the batter rest, covered, in the fridge, where the yeast develops more slowly.)
- Right before cooking the waffles, beat in the eggs and the baking soda. Fold in the ham, cheese, and chives. Cook the waffles in a waffle iron. Serve immediately, or transfer the waffles as they cook to a racked baking sheet in a 200F/93C oven until ready to serve. If you like, top the waffles with hot sauce and fried eggs. They’d also be delicious with salted butter and warm maple syrup.